Enigmatic strokes of artistic provocation, drapery and textiles fashioned in the language of artists, woolen blankets, vintage scarves and tapestry as haute couture: that is the staple of the Maison Martin Margiela 2014 Spring Couture Collection.
“Artisanal” was the name of the game (and collection). Bauhaus and tapestry based on a Gauguin painting and an old rescue blanket (from which a jacket was cut); transformation fetishized to beautiful aplomb on this runway. Obscuring the models faces with organdy veils and embroidered eye holes transfix the viewer on each textile, scissor cut, and embellishment. His clothes evoke an aura of beguiling mystery, flannel juxtaposed with enormous flowers, A-line dresses with asymmetrical hemming. The torn-and-tattered repurposed into punk haute debutante.
As Margiela told the NYTimes, “When I recut clothes, old or new, it’s to transform them. It’s my way of bringing them back to life in another form.” Craft, ideology, egalitarian, and experimental tradition remains the MMM establishment to true artisanal effect.